Windows 11 looks like a modest evolution of Windows 10, but underneath, Microsoft raised the hardware bar more sharply than with any version in years. A PC that runs Windows 10 beautifully can still be refused the upgrade because of a single missing feature — a security chip that is switched off, a processor one generation too old, or a firmware setting left in legacy mode. Finding that out before you start the upgrade saves a frustrating evening.
This guide shows you two ways to check compatibility: Microsoft’s official PC Health Check app, which gives a clear pass-or-fail answer in under a minute, and a manual check of every requirement, which tells you exactly which item failed and whether it is something you can fix in settings rather than something you need to buy.
The Official Requirements at a Glance
Microsoft’s minimum specification for Windows 11 is: a compatible 64-bit processor at 1 GHz or faster with 2 or more cores; 4 GB of RAM; 64 GB of storage; UEFI firmware with Secure Boot capability; a Trusted Platform Module (TPM) version 2.0; a graphics card compatible with DirectX 12 with a WDDM 2.0 driver; and a display larger than 9 inches at 720p resolution or better. An internet connection and a Microsoft account are also required to finish setup on the Home edition.
Two of these catch people out far more than the rest. The processor list is generation-based, not speed-based: most Intel chips must be 8th generation or newer, and most AMD chips must be Ryzen 2000 series or newer, so a fast older chip can fail while a slower newer one passes. And the TPM 2.0 requirement is frequently a settings issue rather than missing hardware, because many motherboards shipped with the module present but disabled. The full list is published on Microsoft’s official Windows 11 specification and requirements page, which is worth reading if your PC fails on an unusual item.
Method 1: Run the PC Health Check App
PC Health Check is Microsoft’s own compatibility tool, and it is the quickest answer you can get.
- Download PC Health Check from Microsoft’s Windows 11 page and install it. Many Windows 10 PCs already have it — search for “PC Health Check” in the Start menu first.
- Open the app and look at the Windows 11 panel at the top.
- Select Check now. Within a few seconds you will see either “This PC meets Windows 11 requirements” or “This PC doesn’t currently meet Windows 11 system requirements”.
- If it fails, select See all results. The app lists every requirement with a tick or a cross, which turns a flat refusal into a specific to-do list.
Treat the headline verdict as provisional until you have read the detailed results. The most common story with this app is a capable PC failing on TPM 2.0 or Secure Boot — both of which are often one BIOS setting away from passing. That is what the manual checks below are for.
Method 2: Check Each Requirement Manually
Processor, RAM, and storage
Go to Settings > System > About. Under Device specifications you will see your processor model, installed RAM, and system type. Note the exact CPU model — for example “Intel Core i5-7400” or “AMD Ryzen 5 3600” — and compare it against Microsoft’s supported processor lists, since generation decides pass or fail. Storage is shown under the Storage section of the same page or in Settings > System > Storage; you need at least 64 GB total capacity, and realistically far more free space for a comfortable upgrade.
TPM 2.0
Press Windows key + R, type tpm.msc, and press Enter. The TPM Management window shows whether a TPM is present and ready, and the Specification Version field tells you if it is 2.0. If the window says no compatible TPM can be found, do not give up: restart into your BIOS or UEFI setup and look for the TPM setting under Security or Advanced. On Intel systems it may be labelled PTT (Platform Trust Technology); on AMD systems, fTPM. Enabling it is free and instantly satisfies the requirement on most PCs built since about 2016.
Secure Boot and UEFI
Press Windows key + R, type msinfo32, and press Enter. In System Information, check BIOS Mode — it should say UEFI — and Secure Boot State, which should say On. If BIOS Mode says Legacy, your system disk is probably formatted as MBR rather than GPT, and converting it is a more involved job that deserves a full backup first. Secure Boot itself is switched on in the BIOS setup, usually under Boot or Security, and on most machines it can be enabled in seconds once UEFI mode is active.
What to Do If Your PC Fails the Check
First, separate fixable failures from final ones. TPM switched off, Secure Boot disabled, and RAM below 4 GB on a desktop with free slots are all fixable, cheaply or for free. An unsupported processor is the hard limit: Microsoft does not support upgrading around it for everyday use, and while unofficial workarounds exist, they can leave you without updates and are not a sensible choice for a machine you rely on.
If the CPU is the blocker, your realistic options are to keep running Windows 10 for as long as it remains safe for your situation, consider whether a processor and motherboard upgrade makes economic sense on an older machine — it usually does not — or plan a replacement PC with Windows 11 in mind. Whatever you decide, keep taking backups and security seriously in the meantime. Our library of Windows upgrade guides and hardware advice can help you judge whether an upgrade or a replacement is the better spend.
Common Mistakes and Useful Tips
- Judging the CPU by speed alone: a 3.8 GHz processor from an unsupported generation still fails, while a modest 8th-generation Intel or Ryzen 2000 chip passes. Check the generation, not the gigahertz.
- Assuming no TPM means buying one: most PCs since 2016 have firmware TPM built in. Look for PTT or fTPM in the BIOS before spending anything.
- Trusting the headline result only: always open “See all results” in PC Health Check. The failing item is often a two-minute settings fix.
- Changing BIOS settings without noting the originals: write down or photograph settings before you change them, so you can reverse anything that causes a boot problem.
- Converting MBR to GPT casually: switching disk formats to enable UEFI is the riskiest step in this whole guide. Back up everything first, or leave it alone.
- Checking while a feature update is pending: install pending Windows 10 updates and restart before running the checker, so the results reflect a settled system.
Conclusion
Checking whether your PC can run Windows 11 takes five minutes with PC Health Check, and ten more minutes of manual checks if it fails. Run the app, open the detailed results, and verify the usual suspects yourself in tpm.msc and msinfo32: in a large share of cases the “incompatible” PC is simply a TPM or Secure Boot setting away from passing. Only an unsupported processor is a genuine dead end, and knowing that early lets you plan calmly instead of mid-upgrade.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is PC Health Check the only way to test compatibility?
No. It is the quickest official tool, but you can verify every requirement manually in Settings > System > About, tpm.msc for the TPM version, and msinfo32 for UEFI and Secure Boot status.
My PC has TPM 1.2. Can I upgrade it to 2.0?
Sometimes. Some machines allow a firmware update that raises the TPM to 2.0, and many have a separate firmware TPM (Intel PTT or AMD fTPM) you can enable in the BIOS instead. Check your manufacturer’s support page for your exact model.
Why is my fast processor not supported?
Microsoft’s list is based on processor generation and security features, not raw speed. Most Intel chips must be 8th generation or newer and most AMD chips Ryzen 2000 or newer, regardless of clock speed.
How much free storage do I really need for the upgrade?
The formal minimum is a 64 GB drive, but the upgrade process itself needs temporary working space. Aim for at least 20–25 GB free before starting to avoid mid-install failures.
Can I install Windows 11 on an unsupported PC anyway?
Workarounds exist, but Microsoft does not support them and unsupported PCs may not receive updates reliably. For a machine you depend on, the sensible options are fixing the failing setting, upgrading hardware, or staying on Windows 10.
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